Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and travelers equally celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, UNESCO recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a exclusive roster of world cities and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it enters a global network of more than four hundred cities across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "demonstrates its profound gastronomic legacy and vibrant food ecosystem," according to a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of 70 cities worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this venerable city arrives as little surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, bustling, and vibrant city – the capital of India's most populous state – is finally in the limelight for what has consistently characterized its heart: an unparalleled love for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing dialogue from morning until night in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, refined, and taken to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of food experimentation, merging Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates local ingredients but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on many street corners, there are small establishments and stalls – hidden gems that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a no-frills joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and involved. The vendor beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however say that their children are unwilling to master the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will inspire more people worldwide to learn these tales and visit the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
